New Bimini for our Catalina 34

Replacing the Bimini 2026

The new Standing rigging backstays requires two holes in the Bimini wider apart than the original large hole ( 6" Square ) and it was just not feasible to 'modify' the old canvas, besides it has so many patches that we often referred to it as Joe's Coat.

Over the past few years I have made several Bimini's and Dodgers as well as a bunch of other Canvas works that help fund my addiction - Off Center Harbor Disorder. So it was an easy decision to make a new Canvas Bimini. 

My plan was to just make a new version of the old one with a few tweaks.

Unusually, I decided to treat this as a client's project and keep track of the cost and the time. Typically, I charge around $2000 for a Bimini plus materials. It can be a lot less but rarely more.

So far I have over $1200 in hours and materials.

Once of my clients asked about the materials that I use. Almost always, I use Sunbrella for outside canvas, but use other materials for edge grips and inside liners. The thread that I love is Sailrite's Lifetime PTFE TEX 92 thread, it's not cheap: $160 for 8oz. But the thread is really good, it's hard to cut with a hot knife. I have my Sailrite LSZ 1 ZigZag - Straight stich machine tuned up to use that thread. That took a while to achieve, so now no other thread is allowed in my workshop.

So far I have about 18 hours of labor into the project, so it's getting close to my best priced Biminis.

Time for some pics but I got carried away with the test fit and markup for the new Solar mounting frame.

However, I'm really pleased with the outcome. 

To do: 

• Apply reinforcement patches where the Solar mounts attach.  (DONE)
• Extend the port forward snap flap ( it's 2" too short ) (DONE)
• Expand the backstay holes slightly ( the canvas is stretched where the backstay bridle passes through the canvas and leather reinforcements. (DONE)
• Fix missed stitches on Binding port aft snap flap. (DONE)

Then back to the boat for the final fit and mount the solar frame.

2nd fitting today. Now I'm getting picky! ( or trying to be more of a craftsman )

I'm not liking the finish of the lower edges of the snap flaps, so I'm going to clean them up and rework the binding of those short pieces.  But the rest of it is good.

While there at the boat, I reviewed the Bridge Piece and the old piece will not fit, oh how sad, I'll have to replace it with a new bridge piece, I'm actually looking forward to that.

OK. One more day of fixes then it's finally back on and all done.

Bimini Done.

I tidied up the corner flaps that have the sockets to snap onto the studs that are on the SS Frame.

Tension looks good. I'll probably enlarge the two holes for the backstay bridle and put small covers over the holes to help keep rain out.

Turned out nice. There are zippers on all for edges. The forward ones are for the bridge piece - coming soon - and the sides and aft edge zippers are for a full enclosure.

Of course, it makes the dodger top look old! But !!! I'm going to get that done pretty soon.

This moves us closer to being able to get the boat out for a few days - now, if only the Hillsboro Inlet was open for us :(   Right now it has severe shoaling and we could not get out. It's nearly 3' depth at low tide and not enough tide to let our 6' draft clear the bottom.  So our trips will have to be via the Port Everglades inlet for a while until the Hillsboro Inlet District Dredge is able to get back on top of the shoaling. Weather is not cooperating in that objective.

But we will see you on the water soon - just have to replace the Engine Heat Exchanger.

Paul

Caring for Strataglass

How to care for Strataglass Vinyl Window Material used on Sailboat Dodgers and Enclosures

I get asked a lot about this issue, what is the best way to take care of Strataglass Vinyl material that is subject to the UV damage that occurs outdoors in South Florida.

It's a good question. I have seen dodger material that is so damaged that I could put my fist through the material. It's Crispy, Brown, Dry and almost completely opaque after just a few years from installation. When I asked the owner what they had used to keep it clean, the reply was Dishwashing Soap. Others had used Pledge type waxing products.

Why not use those domestic cleaners / polishers?

Simple! They remove the plasticizers from the surface of the Vinyl. Now just to be clear, the plasticizers are removed by UV rays, good old South Florida Sunshine. As those plasticizers degrade, so does the surface of the vinyl and the transparency. The vinyl become ridged and opaque, almost impossible to clean, they turn brown as they prematurely age. This can happen in just a couple of years here in SoFla. 

The answer is to protect your Strataglass and other brands often referred to as Isinglass.

When I purchase Strataglass, normally #40 gauge,  it comes in a 5 sheet container and that container includes mulitple warranty registration documents for the material.

Proper maintenance of Strataglass is essential not only for clarity but also to keep the manufacturer's warranty in effect. The recommended care routine relies heavily on products from the IMAR line.

Routine Maintenance Schedule

Frequency	Action	Procedure
After Every Use	Rinse	Thoroughly flush vinyl surfaces with clean, fresh water to remove salt and abrasives. Air dry or use a high-quality chamois or microfiber towel.
Every 1–2 Weeks	Clean	Use Strataglass Protective Cleaner. Spray directly on the surface or a soft cloth and wipe gently.
Every 1–2 Months	Polish	Apply Strataglass Protective Polish. Use small circular motions with a soft cloth, let dry briefly, then buff to a shine.

Best Practices for Longevity

• Immediate Spot Cleaning: Keep a bottle of protective cleaner on board. If sunscreen, insect repellent (DEET), or other chemicals touch the vinyl, clean them off immediately to prevent permanent clouding.

• New Enclosure Care: New vinyl is soft and "impressionable." Keep panels installed and fastened as much as possible to help them stabilize. If you must stack them, place a soft fabric (like a bed sheet) between each panel.

• Temperature Awareness: Avoid rolling up vinyl when the temperature is below 15°C (60°F), as the material can become brittle and crack. Ideally, only roll them when it is above 21°C (70°F).

• Storage: Never store panels wet. If they develop clouding from moisture, exposure to sunlight or a hair dryer (used cautiously) can usually clear it.

Critical "Never" List

Using the following products will damage the vinyl coating and void your warranty:

• Harsh Cleaners: Never use Windex, Rain-X, Pledge, Plexus, Simple Green, or Orpine.

• Waxes: Avoid car wax or "wash and wax" combo products.

• Commercial Products: Do not use cleaners or scratch removers designed for standard commercial-grade vinyl or plastics.

Note: For the best results, ensure your hands are free of sunscreen before handling the panels, as the oils can cause permanent marks that are nearly impossible to buff out.

That pretty well covers the best practices for keeping your Strataglass vinyl windows clean and clear, however I go a step further. COVER the windows.

I recommend that all Strataglass vinyl windows are covered when the boat is at the dock.  The covers should be UV resistant, and should have a soft material where the covers touch the vinyl. It's best if the covers are attached along their top edge with a material flap that covers a zipper the full width of the window. This reduces the risk of rain drizzling down the inside of the covers and any rain borne chemicals leaving a streak on the Strataglass.  When I make the covers, I use that method of securing the top edge of the cover and Twist Lock Fasteners along the lower edge. If needed, I'll use additional Twist Lock fasteners along the vertical sides of the covers. 

Now, when I get asked " What's the best way to protect my vinyl windows " I'll just say - it's complex but read my blog.

Thank you.

I hope this all helps. 

May your vinyl's stay bright and clear.

Paul

Upgrading the Boom Vang on our Catalina 34

It was past time to fix the Vang

The Boom Vang on Eximius was probably 39 years old. We had replaced the line just recently ( months ) but it was still virtually impossible to make an adjustment other than completely releasing the tension or increasing the tension in significant jumps, ie. no subtle adjustments possible.  Yes, I lubricated the blocks but that barely made a difference.  So! Time for a new Vang.

Catalina Direct sells the replacement kit, just a couple of blocks and some line. 

It's a simple piece of rigging but what a difference! It's now easy to adjust but I did find a method of rigging a cascade pull to make the adjustment even easier! We'll see how that goes later in the season.

Meanwhile, it's time to get some canvas done and the new solar panels installed.

See you on the water.

Paul

Final fix of the Propane System

Fixed - Propane system is now working - correctly

We left the project alone for a few months, we were not planning on using it and other things snuck up on us demanding attention.  So it floated to the top of the ToDo list.

The problem:

After replacing the propane connectors, pressure gauge, regulator and Solenoid, the system was not working as expected. The solenoid was not shutting off the gas flow and pressure gauge was showing zero.

I purchased replacement gauge and solenoid but life happened, so the bit sat on the boat waiting on calmer weather.  That happened this week!

It turns out that the issue was with the new setup. The solenoid was before the regulator and the pressure gauge was on the low pressure side of the regulator - that just didn't work.

I took it all apart and rebuilt it. Now the Supply tank is connected to the top of the stack and the output of the stack is at the bottom.

With it this way, the Pressure gauge reads the pressure of the supply tank: That now works.

The Solenoid controls the flow from the output of the regulator: That work now too!

With the control system setup this way, the Pressure Gauge reads the Tank Pressure ( never worked until now.), the Solenoid controls the propane delivery almost instantly, if the stove is on and then the Solenoid switch is opened, the gas pressure drops immediately and the flame is extinguished.  

The tank valve is normally closed until we need to light the cooker, so we turn off the gas controls on the cooker, turn off the solenoid and then turn off the tank control valve is we do not anticipate needing it again within an hour or two.

It's such a relief having the system working. Not because we use the propane system often, but knowing that it's working and the gas is shut off is a big stress reliever.

Cross that one off the list.