Installing New Solar Panels pt. 2

Installing New Solar Panels 2026 Pt. 2

Ok, I think I have everything but don't hold your breath. 

Saturday, we mounted two beams of 4040 Aluminum Extrusion ( made from 2 1m pieces, so 2 meters long )  They were secured to the Bimini Frame at the four corners using 1/2" AL Spacers and 3 1/2" M6 Bolts that threaded through the Bimini tube hinge fittings.

That all went well, but, because of the position of the Backstay Bridle, I had move the aft solar panel a little further that means the beams will need extending by about 6" I have the bits to do that.

To attach the Solar Panels to the Beams, I ordered

Once cut to length, they can be connected into the rectangular frame and mounted on the boat over the top of the Bimini.

These will be attached to the Beams using the T Nuts and the M8 Bolts then they will be bolted to the sides of the Solar Panels with nuts and bolts.

So far this has turned out better than I thought. It looks good, is pretty simple and very sturdy. I did run the Inverter once the panel was connected and turned on the Water Heater, that's about an 1,800w load. The panel output ramped up to 295Watts! From a 320w panel that's pretty good.

Next to extend the beams and mount the 2nd panel for a total of 640Watts of Solar power. The two panels will be in series which should give about 40+ Volts and 24Amps well within the 100v / 50Amp Victron MPPT Solar controller.

Should have some pics of the setup this week. Later I'll move the wiring to inside of a conduit and eliminate the UV damaged cable clamshell on the outside of the coaming.

Well that went really well.

Turns out the simple method was enough.

There was a Aluminum tube that braced the Radar pole to the old Backstay bridle that was just above where the panels are now. I never liked that setup. But I can mount another piece of the 4040 from the Port side mounting frame to the pole and will improve the stability of the Radar. I'll take pics of that too.

Meanwhile, another job to cross off the list.

Sailing plans are for a week Monday down to Biscayne Bay.

See you there.

New Bimini for our Catalina 34

Replacing the Bimini 2026

The new Standing rigging backstays requires two holes in the Bimini wider apart than the original large hole ( 6" Square ) and it was just not feasible to 'modify' the old canvas, besides it has so many patches that we often referred to it as Joe's Coat.

Over the past few years I have made several Bimini's and Dodgers as well as a bunch of other Canvas works that help fund my addiction - Off Center Harbor Disorder. So it was an easy decision to make a new Canvas Bimini. 

My plan was to just make a new version of the old one with a few tweaks.

Unusually, I decided to treat this as a client's project and keep track of the cost and the time. Typically, I charge around $2000 for a Bimini plus materials. It can be a lot less but rarely more.

So far I have over $1200 in hours and materials.

Once of my clients asked about the materials that I use. Almost always, I use Sunbrella for outside canvas, but use other materials for edge grips and inside liners. The thread that I love is Sailrite's Lifetime PTFE TEX 92 thread, it's not cheap: $160 for 8oz. But the thread is really good, it's hard to cut with a hot knife. I have my Sailrite LSZ 1 ZigZag - Straight stich machine tuned up to use that thread. That took a while to achieve, so now no other thread is allowed in my workshop.

So far I have about 18 hours of labor into the project, so it's getting close to my best priced Biminis.

Time for some pics but I got carried away with the test fit and markup for the new Solar mounting frame.

However, I'm really pleased with the outcome. 

To do: 

• Apply reinforcement patches where the Solar mounts attach.  (DONE)
• Extend the port forward snap flap ( it's 2" too short ) (DONE)
• Expand the backstay holes slightly ( the canvas is stretched where the backstay bridle passes through the canvas and leather reinforcements. (DONE)
• Fix missed stitches on Binding port aft snap flap. (DONE)

Then back to the boat for the final fit and mount the solar frame.

2nd fitting today. Now I'm getting picky! ( or trying to be more of a craftsman )

I'm not liking the finish of the lower edges of the snap flaps, so I'm going to clean them up and rework the binding of those short pieces.  But the rest of it is good.

While there at the boat, I reviewed the Bridge Piece and the old piece will not fit, oh how sad, I'll have to replace it with a new bridge piece, I'm actually looking forward to that.

OK. One more day of fixes then it's finally back on and all done.

Bimini Done.

I tidied up the corner flaps that have the sockets to snap onto the studs that are on the SS Frame.

Tension looks good. I'll probably enlarge the two holes for the backstay bridle and put small covers over the holes to help keep rain out.

Turned out nice. There are zippers on all for edges. The forward ones are for the bridge piece - coming soon - and the sides and aft edge zippers are for a full enclosure.

Of course, it makes the dodger top look old! But !!! I'm going to get that done pretty soon.

This moves us closer to being able to get the boat out for a few days - now, if only the Hillsboro Inlet was open for us :(   Right now it has severe shoaling and we could not get out. It's nearly 3' depth at low tide and not enough tide to let our 6' draft clear the bottom.  So our trips will have to be via the Port Everglades inlet for a while until the Hillsboro Inlet District Dredge is able to get back on top of the shoaling. Weather is not cooperating in that objective.

But we will see you on the water soon - just have to replace the Engine Heat Exchanger.

Paul

Caring for Strataglass

How to care for Strataglass Vinyl Window Material used on Sailboat Dodgers and Enclosures

I get asked a lot about this issue, what is the best way to take care of Strataglass Vinyl material that is subject to the UV damage that occurs outdoors in South Florida.

It's a good question. I have seen dodger material that is so damaged that I could put my fist through the material. It's Crispy, Brown, Dry and almost completely opaque after just a few years from installation. When I asked the owner what they had used to keep it clean, the reply was Dishwashing Soap. Others had used Pledge type waxing products.

Why not use those domestic cleaners / polishers?

Simple! They remove the plasticizers from the surface of the Vinyl. Now just to be clear, the plasticizers are removed by UV rays, good old South Florida Sunshine. As those plasticizers degrade, so does the surface of the vinyl and the transparency. The vinyl become ridged and opaque, almost impossible to clean, they turn brown as they prematurely age. This can happen in just a couple of years here in SoFla. 

The answer is to protect your Strataglass and other brands often referred to as Isinglass.

When I purchase Strataglass, normally #40 gauge,  it comes in a 5 sheet container and that container includes mulitple warranty registration documents for the material.

Proper maintenance of Strataglass is essential not only for clarity but also to keep the manufacturer's warranty in effect. The recommended care routine relies heavily on products from the IMAR line.

Routine Maintenance Schedule

Frequency	Action	Procedure
After Every Use	Rinse	Thoroughly flush vinyl surfaces with clean, fresh water to remove salt and abrasives. Air dry or use a high-quality chamois or microfiber towel.
Every 1–2 Weeks	Clean	Use Strataglass Protective Cleaner. Spray directly on the surface or a soft cloth and wipe gently.
Every 1–2 Months	Polish	Apply Strataglass Protective Polish. Use small circular motions with a soft cloth, let dry briefly, then buff to a shine.

Best Practices for Longevity

• Immediate Spot Cleaning: Keep a bottle of protective cleaner on board. If sunscreen, insect repellent (DEET), or other chemicals touch the vinyl, clean them off immediately to prevent permanent clouding.

• New Enclosure Care: New vinyl is soft and "impressionable." Keep panels installed and fastened as much as possible to help them stabilize. If you must stack them, place a soft fabric (like a bed sheet) between each panel.

• Temperature Awareness: Avoid rolling up vinyl when the temperature is below 15°C (60°F), as the material can become brittle and crack. Ideally, only roll them when it is above 21°C (70°F).

• Storage: Never store panels wet. If they develop clouding from moisture, exposure to sunlight or a hair dryer (used cautiously) can usually clear it.

Critical "Never" List

Using the following products will damage the vinyl coating and void your warranty:

• Harsh Cleaners: Never use Windex, Rain-X, Pledge, Plexus, Simple Green, or Orpine.

• Waxes: Avoid car wax or "wash and wax" combo products.

• Commercial Products: Do not use cleaners or scratch removers designed for standard commercial-grade vinyl or plastics.

Note: For the best results, ensure your hands are free of sunscreen before handling the panels, as the oils can cause permanent marks that are nearly impossible to buff out.

That pretty well covers the best practices for keeping your Strataglass vinyl windows clean and clear, however I go a step further. COVER the windows.

I recommend that all Strataglass vinyl windows are covered when the boat is at the dock.  The covers should be UV resistant, and should have a soft material where the covers touch the vinyl. It's best if the covers are attached along their top edge with a material flap that covers a zipper the full width of the window. This reduces the risk of rain drizzling down the inside of the covers and any rain borne chemicals leaving a streak on the Strataglass.  When I make the covers, I use that method of securing the top edge of the cover and Twist Lock Fasteners along the lower edge. If needed, I'll use additional Twist Lock fasteners along the vertical sides of the covers. 

Now, when I get asked " What's the best way to protect my vinyl windows " I'll just say - it's complex but read my blog.

Thank you.

I hope this all helps. 

May your vinyl's stay bright and clear.

Paul

Upgrading the Boom Vang on our Catalina 34

It was past time to fix the Vang

The Boom Vang on Eximius was probably 39 years old. We had replaced the line just recently ( months ) but it was still virtually impossible to make an adjustment other than completely releasing the tension or increasing the tension in significant jumps, ie. no subtle adjustments possible.  Yes, I lubricated the blocks but that barely made a difference.  So! Time for a new Vang.

Catalina Direct sells the replacement kit, just a couple of blocks and some line. 

It's a simple piece of rigging but what a difference! It's now easy to adjust but I did find a method of rigging a cascade pull to make the adjustment even easier! We'll see how that goes later in the season.

Meanwhile, it's time to get some canvas done and the new solar panels installed.

See you on the water.

Paul

Final fix of the Propane System

Fixed - Propane system is now working - correctly

We left the project alone for a few months, we were not planning on using it and other things snuck up on us demanding attention.  So it floated to the top of the ToDo list.

The problem:

After replacing the propane connectors, pressure gauge, regulator and Solenoid, the system was not working as expected. The solenoid was not shutting off the gas flow and pressure gauge was showing zero.

I purchased replacement gauge and solenoid but life happened, so the bit sat on the boat waiting on calmer weather.  That happened this week!

It turns out that the issue was with the new setup. The solenoid was before the regulator and the pressure gauge was on the low pressure side of the regulator - that just didn't work.

I took it all apart and rebuilt it. Now the Supply tank is connected to the top of the stack and the output of the stack is at the bottom.

With it this way, the Pressure gauge reads the pressure of the supply tank: That now works.

The Solenoid controls the flow from the output of the regulator: That work now too!

With the control system setup this way, the Pressure Gauge reads the Tank Pressure ( never worked until now.), the Solenoid controls the propane delivery almost instantly, if the stove is on and then the Solenoid switch is opened, the gas pressure drops immediately and the flame is extinguished.  

The tank valve is normally closed until we need to light the cooker, so we turn off the gas controls on the cooker, turn off the solenoid and then turn off the tank control valve is we do not anticipate needing it again within an hour or two.

It's such a relief having the system working. Not because we use the propane system often, but knowing that it's working and the gas is shut off is a big stress reliever.

Cross that one off the list.

Installing New Solar Panels

 Another Solar Panel Upgrade

As mentioned in my article about replacing our Standing Rigging, I have to alter the Solar Panel install on Eximius.

Currently, we have 600W of Bougrv Solar Panels mounted on top of the Bimini laid out with the single panel athwartships in front of the Backstay bridle and two panels on either side of the backstay bridle. 

Because the new standing rigging's Backstay bridle extends higher from the Bimini, I need to change the panel layout and that involves replacing the 3 existing panels.

The new layout will be as shown below.

The gap between the panels is due to the angle of the Backstay Bridle as can be seen in the lower image.

The panel dimensions are slightly larger than the area taken up by the old panels, I figured that out after completing the previous upgrade.

It looks like I'll be able to install a pair of approximately 435Watt panels giving a total of 870Watts of Solar Power. I know, that's not going to happen, but it should be much better than the Max 0f 600Watts we have presently. I would expect to get at least 700 watts. when the batteries need it.

The panels I'm looking at - next day delivery by Amazon, are about $540 for the pair. 

STAR 870 Watt Solar Panel, 2PCS 435W 48V/24V Solar Panels. 

Update: Because those panels would hang off of the stern by way too much, it would be easy to damage them when docking. So I selected these instead:

Renogy Solar Panels 2PCS 320 Watt Solar Panel 18BB N-Type Solar Panel 12 24 Volts Monocrystalline On/Off Grid Solar Setup 640W Over 400 Watt Solar Panels 25% Cell Efficiency for Homes Rooftop RV Boat They are $599 for the pair. :(

From the specs of those panels, if connected in Parallel, the max output would be around 36v and 50amps. Well within the range of my Victron 100/50amp controller.

But if connected in series, the output would be more like 72v at 30amps and that's a better case for the MPPT controller.

For the wiring, I could keep the existing wiring from the panels to the controller, however, those wires are only 6awg and were only installed 3 years ago, they have suffered UV damage, so I'll replace them but with larger cables, 4 awg and I'll run those inside plastic conduit. Basically, I'll install a connector box beneath the solar panels with a terminal block inside, then wire inside of conduit down to the deck and into the side of the combing and to the area where all of the Victron equipment is located beneath the Nav Table. 

Doing that should minimize the voltage drop between the panels and the controller.

Ok, that's the plan. Now I have to decide "Do I repair or replace the Bimini" before installing the new solar panels.

Now, I do have to comment on the whole issue of Solar Panel sizing and installation. From my experience over the past 11 years of boat ownership, I conclude that it's best to go big!  I have purchased 2 Victron MPPT solar controllers a 100v/20amp and 100v/50amp. I should have purchased a 100v/70amp controller or two 100v/50amp controllers.

OK, back to the design of the Solar Panel mounting.

I like the idea of using 4040 Aluminum Extrusion, and wondered if Google Gemini could come up with a plan. Here's what I asked Gemini:-

design a solar panel mounting frame that attaches to a 1inch tubular Bimini frame using 4040 aluminum extrusions

( The text of  the response is at the end of this post ) Here's the result: I made up this image using the suggested plan for the mounting frame. ( I use Google workspace drawing for most of my diagrams. )

Mounting Frame Connection to Bimini Frame

Solar Panel Attachment to Mounting Frame

Frame Construction.

Basically, using a Stainless Steel Hinged Bimini Rail Clamp on the Bimini Rail, use a couple of Nylon Ferrules as a stand off to allow the stainless bolt to pass through the Bimini Canvas and hold the whole thing together with a M8 T-Nut and bolt.

Gemini suggested I make a rectangular 4 sided frame using the 4040 Aluminum Extrusion, joining the Corners using Inside Corner Brackets.

This should result in a nice looking and substantially rigid frame on which to mount the two panels. I could put rubber washers between the Extrusion and the Hinge Clamp to add a bit of wiggle but I think I'll see how it comes out first.

Parts list

2 x 4 Pack of 4040 48 Inch Black Anodized Aluminum Extrusions

8 x Spartan Power Black Solar Panel Z Bracket Mount

8 Straight Line Connector Joint Brackets ( to join the 48" extrusions )

4 Stainless Hinged Clamps

4 x 2.5" M8 T-Nuts & Bolts

8 Nylon Ferrules ( 1/2" OD 1/4" ID)

4 Aluminium 2" Spacers

I feel that this is coming together nicely. I'll go down to the boat on Monday and double check the dimensions of the panels and frame.

With that, I'll end this post, but here's a link to the Gemini response.  

Stay tuned for the next phase.

Meanwhile, I hope to see you on the water.

Paul

Replacing the Standing Rigging. Completion

Completed the Standing Rigging Replacement.

Just about every muscle in my body is aching and I didn't do a fraction of what the Rigger did !!

A quick intro to the Rigger - Dam Rigging, Inc.

Christian ( Chris ) Dam, from Denmark, gave a quote for the job estimating 16-18 hours of work @ $150ph.

We set the work date for March 9th. 2026 starting around 09:30, he arrived on time. Just a quick note here: "HE ARRIVED ON TIME". This is South Florida - that's unusual in two ways - #1 He turned up, @2 He turned up on time!  Good start.

By the time Chris had arrived, I had laid out all of the new standing rigging cables and connectors etc. All by the new Forestay as Chris had initially intended to do the Forestay on Day 2.

After a quick review of the work, Chris got his gear together including his climbing gear  -  that's a 4:1 purchase block and tackle that he used to climb the mast almost unassisted. Neat bit of kit. It had a jamb cleat on the lower block so he could hoist himself up the mast unaided. To climb down - more like just lower himself down - he just held the line out of the jamb cleat and eased it out as he quickly, but controlled, descended. 

Nice setup.

He soon had the lower shrouds on the dock and measured the old and new shrouds. After making up the new Shrouds to length, Chris was back up the mast and installing them.

That's how the day went: Secure the mast in order to remove one or more shrouds, measure up, make up and then install. Despite it being the 2nd week of March, it was hot enough to have us both sweating. 

Then it was time to work on the Forestay with the Furler. This is the longest stay and the most challenging but it was obvious that Chris had done this many times. It really went very smoothly. I was surprised that we got all of the Shrouds and the Forestay completed and was able to wrap up for the day by 5pm. I helped as much as I could but Chris did most of the work.

Tuesday, start was at 10am, time to work on the back stay. 1st snag. Our backstay has the Delta Plate ( the triangular plate where the split backstay bridle joins the main backstay that connects to the mast head) is about 6" above the Bimini and the bridle wires pass through a gap in our two aft solar panels. Well, the new Backstay seems to be for an adjustable backstay, the Delta Plate is about 8' higher and so the bridle cables are much further apart. The old backstay bridle was 6" wide at the Bimini, the new is 33" !!! In order to install the backstay I needed to remove the two aft solar panels. While I did that, Chris worked on preparing the rigging for tuning. Once the solar panels were out of the way, I made a hole in the Bimini canvas where the new backstay bridles would pass and we completed the install. Chris had his Loose Gauges out and diligently went around the boat adjusting the rigging.  We were done.

Everything was wrapped up by 4pm, so a total of 14 hours. Chris originally quoted 14 - 18 hours but I guess my help cut some of that.

Total cost of the work, new spreader boots and travel time came to $2,400.40. The stress of someone that knows what they are doing and able to work around the issues that most likely happen on every boat, all made sense and I slept really well that night.

Catalina Direct for the Rigging supplies: $3,824.95  - Catalinadirect.com

Dam Rigging Inc. for the installation: $2,400.40      - damrigging.com

Total cost $6,225.35 Plus sandwich lunches for two for two days.

Value: ENORMOUS ! Pease of mind - invaluable.

To continue, I'm going to reorganize the Solar Panel install. probably going to replace the 3 x 200Watt panels with 2 x 300+ panels, perhaps a total of 800 wats. I have to measure the area available over the Bimini, it's going to be just two panels, one in front of the Backstay bridle and one astern of the bridle.

I'll have to do a significant rework of the Bimini canvas, it's due! Move that job up the priority list.

We could take the boat out right now, bit of a make shift condition, but should be done in a couple of weeks. But hopefully we'll see you on the water.

Paul