Updating the Dodger - cleaning up the templates

Cleaning up the Dodger Templates

Someone asked me why I'm going into so much detail about this project, the answer is pretty simple: By making dozens of drawings, graphics and asking lots of questions, I'm actually getting down to the detailed design and construction process. I'm learning more about doing a complex project like this just by writing about it. If you want to learn something, teach it!

NOTE! All the pics and graphics can be clicked upon to view them full size.


Here's my review of the pieces that make up the completed Dodger

Dodger frame

Sketch of the Dodger Frame, the aft support is only shown on the Stbd side, but there is a second on the Port side.

Dodger Top Panel

The Top Panel has side strips that will attach to the ridge that's on the Cabin Top in front of the Companionway cover plate.

The Front Window Panel will zip into this panel and the side window panels will zip into it on each side.

Dodger Side Window Panel

Sketch of the Stbd Side Window Panel, there will be a single zipper that extends from the Aft top corner of this panel all the way forward and down to the front tip of this panel.

Dodger Front Window Panel

Sketch of the Front Window Panel.
This panel will be attached at the top and sides with two zippers. Each starting at the top center of this panel and reaching all the way to the side strips and then down to the Front Lower Edge.

The bottom section of this panel will be Sunbrella lined with Shelter‑Rite® White 61" Fabric

The top and sides will be 1.25" Bias cut Binding Tape used as a facing tape.

The Cut outs for the Running rigging lines at the lower edge will be edged with Leather.


I spent hours watching the Sailrite Videos, and then more trying to figure out the correct layering order. Using the Sailrite online Chat feature, I discussed the issues with their very helpful support team and the last one suggested that I email support with the questions.

Then I spent about an hour making up the following graphics to help explain my doubts and in the process, answered my own questions.

Here's the graphics I sent to Sailrite Support.

Dodger Front Panel Lower Edge Layers

This shows the layers that will make up the Front Lower Edge. It does not show that there will be Snaps installed along that lower edge, but it does show the Binding covering the Sunbrella Outer Fabric and the Shelter Rite Lining. The Strataglass will be sewn to the Sunbrella and the top (left in the pic) egde of the Sunbrella will be turned under and resewn. On the underside of the Front Lower edge, the Strataglass will be edged with Bias Cut Binding tape laid flat, it will cover the joint of the Strataglass and the Shelter rite lining.

Dodger Front Panel Zippered Top & Side Edge Layers

This graphic shows the layers that will form the Zippered Top and Side edges of the Front Window Panel. the lower end of this panel will have the same layers as the Front Lower Edge (previous graphic) as will the lower edge of the Side Window Panels.

Dodger Front of Top and Side Strip Layers

This final graphic shows the layers that will form the front of the Top Panel and the side strips. The lower edge of the side strips will use the same layer order as shown in the graphic (2 up from this) 

This graphic shows that the Sunbrella will be edge dwith Bias Binding Tape and the Zipper will be enclosed, out of the Sunlight. This same layer form will be used for the Zipper that extends from the aft end of the Top Panel all the way to the front, lower edge of the side panel.

Having figured out the layers for the construction, it was time to clean up the templates.

The Sailrite video show using 'Sand Bags' to help manage large templates and pieces of fabric on the work table, here's mine. They only took about 30 minutes to make all three.

Slightly smaller than the ones Sailrite describe. These are made from 8" x 16" offcuts of Sunbrella fabric and scraps of Dura Skim patterning material.

Here's my work space. I purchased a 2nd 6' Folding table just to handle this project, I'm sure it'll be used for many more.

The template on the tables in this pic is hanging off the far end by about 4 feet! and it barely fits across the two tables.

I have been working to clean up the template lines, mark the zipper locations and figure where I'll need to cut the templates and where I'll need to join them.

Just getting this part done has taken several hours.

I really understand why professionals charge so much for making a dodger, it's a lot of work!

Making progress, next it's time to start marking the fabric and cutting things out.

Update: After emailing back and forth with Sailrite, Eric Grant replied (recognize the last name?), he recommended that the Zippers around the front window panel be sewn to the Inside of the panel rather than the outside.

So here's the updated graphic showing the Front Window Panel Top and Bottom Edges

Dodger Front Window Panel Top and Bottom edges

Obviously the graphics are not to scale, but this pic shows where I'll be placing Snap-rite Buttons and Sockets to connect to the existing Snaps that are installed from the previous Dodger, there might have to be a couple of additions, any that are not used will remain in place rather than have to try and repair a hole.

Updating the Dodger - Creating the Template

Creating the Template

With the Modified Frame installed, time to make the template.

Heading down to the boat armed with:

• Dura Skim - more than enough material
• Double Sided Basting Tape  - new roll of 3/8"
• Reinforced shipping tape - plus a spare roll
• Grease Pencil (black)
• Sharpies - Red, Blue, Green, Brown
• Tape Measure
• Note pad

Anyone doing this project on a DIY basis, should watch the How To Videos on Sailrite.com at least several times and then again a few more times. It's the concept that we're trying to figure out.

I'm planning on taking at least 2 hours probably 4 to create the template. Sailrite suggests we should use the shipping tape on the tubes as it's easier to remove than trying to remove the basting tape from the steel tubing. We know that works from making our Binnacle and Wheel cover.

The design of the dodger is not yet cast in stone, or should I say, not yet cut in Sunbrella. We'll figure that out when the template is securely in place. But the basic concept is to have four parts. Top piece that covers the top of the frame and a little way down the sides, below the grab rails. Port & Stbd side windows, and Front window. I'm using 40 gauge Strataglass, which should give us really good visibility and long lasting protection from UV. We want to have a way to vent the underside of the Dodger, either by folding a side panel out of the way or rolling up a segment of the front window.

All of the Strataglass will have Sunbrella covers underlined with 'Evolution Block-it' fabric to prevent scratching by the covers. We expect to leave the forward cover on when the boat is at the dock. The side panels will also have covers, but more for storage than when at the dock - we need Sunlight to get to our Solar Powered Vents that are under the Dodger.

The Top panel will be held in place by Zipped pockets. The side panels will be zippered to the top panel and snapped along their lower edge to the cabin top and cockpit combings. The Front panel will also be zippered to the top panel and snapped to the front of the covered area. We haven't yet decided on whether to use a single front window or a 3 part window. If we go with the single front panel window, then to vent we'll unzip from the side panels. If we go with the 3 part window, we'll have a roll up center pane which will be zippered to the top panel and the sides of the front panel. It's really a mater of how it looks and how we see them being stored below when needed. Trying to keep it simple is our goal, but the 40 gauge Strataglass requires a larger minimum diameter when rolled. It's delivered on a roll that is about 2" diameter. We'll see how this goes. I was tempted to get the 30 gauge window material, but we really like the clarity and durability of the 40 gauge.

So, how did it go?

Shipping tape and Basting tape applied to
Dodger Tubing

Reinforced Shipping tape along all the tubes, along the lower sides and along the front of the cabin top ridge.

This uses a lot of shipping tape and even more Basting tape.

But this only took about 15 minutes to complete.

The completed template overview.

It took about three hours to complete the template and we have decided on the style.

The top is going to reach about 2" below the grab rail.
The front panel will have a strip of canvas at each side that will form the connector to the side panels. It will have cut outs for the lines that are led back to the cockpit.
The front panel will also have canvas for about 6" up from the deck ridge on the cabin top, with shaped tabs where the Quad Spinlock line clutches are located. the lower edge of all panels will be lined. The front window will be zipped into the front panel along the top and down the sides of the front panel.

The Gib sheet will run outside of the side panels

The sides will zip to the top and reach down to just below the combing and aft to the new aft support bar deck hinge.

The aft edge will not be attached to the support bar, that will allow boarders to grab hold of that bar. Instead, the aft edge will be secured with tension straps to the bar.

Lower edges of Side panels to clear the Catalina 34 Logo.

The lower edge of the side panels will be snapped to the sides of the combings, and shaped to rise over the Catalina 34 Logo and run just aft of the side windows.

Side panels to clear the side cabin windows.

Despite the many snaps that already exist, we will probably have to add a few to prevent the side panels flapping against the surfaces.

Front corner of the Side panels will need snaps

The front lower corner of the side panels will need a bit of sculpting to make sure they match up nicely with the front panel.

Shore power cut out needed on Stbd side panel

The Port side panel will need a cut out for the location of the Shore Power connector.

I plan on using a straight edge to straighten the lines before using the template to mark up the Sunbrella Fabric.

Top aft rail hinge connecting Aft support bar

Boo Boo. The aft connector for the support bar on the Port side is above the old tension metal strap and the Stbd side is below the tension metal strap.

I should have noticed that when creating the template. If I lower the connector to below the metal strap, that will require that the lower deck hinge is moved aft but right now both hinges are equally distanced from the winches.

I checked the measurements and the straps are the problem, they are at different heights on both sides. So this is not a problem

Top of Front Panel

We were pretty pleased with the tension we were able to set into the template material (Dura Skim)

I marked the center line of the top tube onto the Top panel, and then applied more basting tape before setting the front panel template. Then marked the center line of the top tube onto the front panel.

We stood back and reviewed the template and decided on the position for the windows

Visibility should be greatly improved. With the Frame set at this height, 7" higher than before, and with the modified front panel design, we can see forwards much better. Peggy can see under the Dodger and I can see over it if stood up straight, and under it if relaxed. Looks like we have a plan.

Tubes after removing tape

It was easy to remove the four template pieces, but the shipping tape decided to really grab the stainless steel tubes.

We'll have to go down to the boat just to clean off the residue.

As it happens, we'll also do some plumbing to repair a dripping leak from the hot water connection to the faucet in the head - not my favorite place to work! It's Cramped.

All in all though, today was a good day, I'm very pleased with the templating process, watching those videos on line from Sailrite.com paid off big time.

Next step is to clean up the lines on the templates, decide where to have the edges and hem allowances.
We'll add a zipper to the aft edge of both side panels for future enclosure attachment.

Making progress.

Won't see you on the water for a few weeks. Now is the exciting bit - making the panels.

Updating the Dodger - Installing the modified frame

Installing the Modified Frame

Back down to the boat this morning to install the modified Dodger Frame. As expected, it was about 3" too tall. It took about a half hour to setup power (dock power failed) and cut off 3" from each side of the dodger extensions. So the additional height ended up being 7"

With the aft frame tube setup so that I can see directly beneath it and forward of the boat, the forward tube was a few inches lower than the aft tube. I fixed that by reducing the side grab rails by 1.25" and then finished the frame reinstall.

Now that the frame was back in it's correct position, it was time to mount the aft support bar. This is intended to replace the line that was used to pull back on the Dodger frame while the canvas was snapped down from the front of the Dodge frame to the cabin top. With the aft support bar in place, the line is not required and I have total flexibility on how to connect the canvas at the front.

Stbd side Aft Frame Support Bar installed.
FYI, the Combing is nearly 1" thick FGRP.

The aft support bar makes a huge difference when boarding the boat into the cockpit, much better than the piece of line that you can still see in the picture, that will come off tomorrow.

We ran out of time on the boat today, but only have the Port side aft support bar to install tomorrow. If we get that done early enough, then we can make the template. all those hours of studying Sailrite's how to videos is paying off.

Had hoped to get the template done today, but it took about 3 hours to get the frame installed. It always takes longer on a sailboat 😉

The aft support bars are 28.75" between cap ends.

Updating the Dodger - Modifying the Frame

Raising the existing Dodger Frame.

We're modifying the Frame in order raise the top of the Dodger so that Peggy (5'6") can see under it when stood at the Helm. It also has to be high enough that it does not obscure my (6'0") vision forwards. And it has to be low enough that the boom will not touch the top when the sail is slack, topping lift loose, Vang and main sheet taught.

Cut the Frame extender and Internal splints

2 x 12" 7/8" dia. Internal Splint Tubes
2 x 10" 1" dia. Extension Tube

I had an old 7/8" Bimini Frame that I have cut bits from for various projects over the past 8 years, and it's the right diameter for the splints. I used a 4" angle grinder with Metal cutting wheels to cut  2 pieces of 12" length. They will get inserted inside the 1" Frame tube and the Extension, then they'll get Riveted into the existing Frame. The Extension tube will probably be about 7" but I'll cut them to 10 inches and check the Boom clearance, then trim their length to fit.

From the 6' of new 1" SS tubing, cut 2 pieces of 10" length, these will become the extension of the main dodger frame, joined with the existing tube using the splint cut as mentioned above.








Remove the existing dodger canvas. 

We have done this several times, some for cleaning and restitching, and other times as part of our Hurricane preparation - Note to self: New Dodger canvas must be removable for Hurricane Prep.

This is a pic of the current Dodger, note how the leading edge of the canvas is responsible for the forwards tension, the thin line at the back of the side window provides the aft tension. Also note the Dodger Tubes are wrapped in a Boat Blanket material to stop the windows getting burnt in the South Florida Summer Sun.

Remove the Grab Rail and reconnect it to the inside of the dodger - the grab rail sets the distance between the Main (aft) and Forward Dodger tube rails.

Add the Frame extension.

Internal Splint Tubes inserted Loosly into Extension Tubes

Pretty simple, at least that's my vision on this part. Just disconnect the lower Cap end from each side of the Dodger frame, Insert the 10" length of tubing into the Cap ends, insert the 12" Internal Splint into both the new extension and the bottom of the old tube.

Reconnect the Cap end to the Deck Hinge and check the height of the Dodger for Boom clearance.

Cut down the new extension tube to get to the correct height.

Once the extension height is correct, Drill the tubes and splint for Riveting. (New Titanium Drill bits!)

Internal Splint & Extension Pop Riveted
with Stainless Steel Rivets.

To make life easier, I drilled the tubes on my home Drill Press. 
3/16" Drill with Extension in Drill vice, easy.

Pop Riveted the Splint to the Extension, solid!
The other two holes will be drilled down at the boat, I don't intend to bring the frame home just to drill 4 holes.
Finally, Attach the Stainless Steel Rail Mount Hinges to either of the Dodger side rails just below the Grab Rail attachment bolts. These will eventually be part of the connector for the new tubes that reach from the back of the new Dodger down to a new deck hinge. These tubes will replace the current piece of 1/8" cord that pulls the dodger frame aft. So the new Dodger will have a sturdy rail for crew to grab as they exit the cockpit.

Stbd side of the Dodger Frame before Modification

Close up of the Stbd Side Deck Hinge before Modifying the Frame

The Extension Internal Splint would not fit inside the
ends of the Frame. So, removed the Dodger Frame from
the Boat to take home. It hung over the back of my F150

The Outside Diameter of the Splint is just larger than the
Inside Dia of the Frame.
Hence the slot along the length of the Splint.

The Splint was still a really tight fit even with
the Slot, Here the Splint has been cut to 3.5" 

1st side Extension fitted. It's a really tight fit.
No need to rivet the Extension in place.

Considering I cut the Extension with a hand held
angle grinder, it's a pretty good fit.

Extension fitted, End Cap installed.

With the Extensions and End Caps installed on both ends of the Dodger Frame, it's time to take it back to the boat and adjust the length of the Extension with the boom in it's lowest position.

Plan is to head down to the boat on Monday to make that adjustment and to create the template for the new Dodger.

We'e hoping this goes pretty quick, but will probably take a couple of weeks. At least at this time of year (it's November 17th 2019) it's pretty cool in my Garage where I do all my sewing.

Let's see how that works out.

Making progress.

Updating the Dodger

It's due! Time to replace the Dodger

This project is going to take some time: It's the most challenging I've tackled so far. It's expensive - at least $650 (by my initial calculation, but look at the Materials page of the spreadsheet below)  dependent upon materials choice. And it's complex compared to everything I've sewn so far.

Why update it?

Old Dodger with 2 year old side windows.
Note front window folded open towards the center for ventilation.

Much of the stitching is failing, it no longer fits well - many of the snaps can no longer be used (material is probably 10-20 years old and has shrunk) and, most importantly, the top of the dodger is directly in Peggy's line of sight, so she has either to sit at the helm or stoop to see under it. I can easily see over it, but I still have to duck coming out or going into the cabin.

Step 1: Decide on the features we want.

• Dodger height increased - at least 6" but it can be raised as much as 7.5"
• Front window panel center opening for ventilation
• Add Dodger frame struts to replace existing lashing from aft of top to combing.
• Wear strips on Aft top edge of dodger (existing canvas has suffered for not having this)

Step 2: Raise the existing Dodger Frame.

• Add a Frame Extension to the bottom of the existing frame.
• Basically I'll remove the lower end Cap end of the main Dodger frame tube, insert a internal splint and add a new piece of 1" SS 316 tubing to the bottom and replace the end cap. Then make any adjustments before templating the new dodger (have to make sure the Boom will not touch the dodger when the sail is fully raised and the topping lift is slack)

Step 3: Follow Sailrite's example concept of templating the new canvas & windows

Step 4: Get down to the construction process - I'll detail that as I go.

Materials

Those prices are after a 10% discount as I purchased them during the Annapolis Boat Show special.
I had some of the binding left over from previous projects for Eximius, and a couple of yards of the Sunbrella and a couple of the zippers. 

With all of the materials at the ready, it's time to start on the project. But 1st, I need to go earn a few boat bucks!!! I'm sure I'll have some material left over, but still had to pay for it. It had better turn our really really well!!

I'll add new posts with pics as we (Peggy will have to help with some of the work - it's much easier to move all of this stuff around with two people involved, besides, this is catering to some of her needs (being able to see out of the dodger when it's raining)  ... at least, that's my story.

Existing Dodger - new side windows, bottom edge does not
reach the studs except for the front, the rear tensioning line
is not strong enough for someone to grab hold and they do!
The Grab rail is one of my additions, it's a huge help so they
will be incorporated in the new design.

Note the lower edge is not snapped in place. The Dodger tubes
are covered in boat blanket and the window was new a couple of
years ago, the old windows were crispy from being burnt by
contact with the tubing in the hot Florida Sunshine

The existing Dodger does not handle the running rigging lines
that now come back to the cockpit, the new Dodger will.

See you on the water!

Something Broke on the Boat

Does something have to break every time we take the boat out?

We took the boat out to Lake Boca a couple of weeks ago and noted that our Anchor light was not working, as things that could go wrong, this is not a biggy, but it does mean I need to go up the mast.

Ok, so I should have checked the circuit breaker 1st, but they rarely go bad. It didn't!

After recovering from the weekend, we both went down to the boat intent on fixing the Anchor Light.

Up the mast #1

With a Trip up the mast to see if it was just the Lamp or the wiring or the fitting. Turned out the fitting was in pieces from Sun Damage and the LED lamp was damaged, probably got wet while lit.

Mast Cap. The block with the empty connector is the old
Wind Transducer that was broken when we purchased
Eximius. The White cable under the connector is the
Anchor Light wire that slipped inside the mast.
The old Anchor Light was sealed with Silicone, but the
Lens had dozens of cracks and several missing bits
probably due to UV damage over the years.

Up the mast #2

After getting a replacement Light fitting from Boat Owners Warehouse on State Road 84, we went back to the boat the next day. I was sore from the day before, my Bosuns 'seat' is webbing and not at all comfortable, today I could not get my butt up the mast due to the discomfort and finally gave up to go and get a decent Bosuns Chair. Down to West Marine off State Road 84, I found a Harken Bosuns Chair for $229 - Wow! But it's nice and should be comfortable. Back to the boat and in no time I was up at the top of the mast.

It took about 20 mins to install the new Lamp Fitting and prepare the wire ends for crimping to the old cable that came out of the top of the mast. First I tested the light using the wires from the mast and it worked fine, I even got the polarity of the lamp the right way around 1st time!

With the Lamp installed, I just needed to attach it with Crimped Butt Joints. Fully prepared, I had the butt joints and heat shrink tubing in my tool kit. with the cables prepared for crimping, I reached into my tool bag for a Butt Joint and Crimpers. Putting one in the Crimpers, I reached up for the supply wire - Where did it go? Oh S@%t! the wire had fallen down inside the mast, absolutely no chance of retrieving it! Grrrrrr. back down the mast, go home and figure out the process.

The following weekend, without an Anchor Light, we went up to Sunrise Bay to anchor among 12 other boats from the Hillsboro Inlet Sailing Club (HISC) and I used a temporary anchor light for the weekend. We purchased a pair of Dinghy lights at the Annapolis Boat Show a year ago, so I just used one of those secured to the Backstay as our Anchor light. It's Bright and easily lasted the whole night long. During the weekend, I was able to pull the fallen Anchor Light cable out from the base of the mast. I also confirmed that there were two unused cables, an old VHF cable and the old Wind Transducer Cable (our New Transducer is Wireless). The VHF cable was already cut off just outside of the base of the Mast.

Back to the Boat  today (Saturday) and Backup the mast. My Neighbor offered me a used Full Fall Arrest Harness, which is just what Harken instructs users of their Bosuns Chair to use.

With Harness attached to a safety line, and my Bosuns chair attached to a climbing rig (a couple of Prussic knots), Tool bag attached to a pull up line, my phone, and wearing my Ear Tec headset, Peggy assisted me wearing her headset while working the Main Halyard Winch (safety line was the Halyard), I headed up the mast.

Once at the top, I pulled up on the old VHF wire and the attached Anchor Light cable, luckily the two passed together through the hole in the top of the mast.

Within an hour of leaving the deck to go up the mast, the Lamp was connected, insulated and tested. We were good to go.

Of course, the tool bag hoisting line got snagged on the furled jib sail and the old VHF cable got snagged on the Radar Reflector and the spreaders, but I was able to free both and retrieve them.

Once back down on the deck after Peggy lowered me via the Main Halyard winch, we checked the Anchor Light, Steaming and Deck Lights, all working great!

Time for a lunch break, clear up and head home. We're ready for our next trip out on Eximius.

Eximius, she is Special! 😏

AIS - nice to know we can be seen

When you're only a small boat, it's nice to know that you can be seen.

We motored back from the HISC Oktoberfest Cruise on Monday morning. The Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show is being put together for it's opening on October 30th. So all of the Big boats are in town.

This is what the AIS overlay looked like as we motored past the boat show.

Just in case it's not obvious, each Red Arrow is an AIS target!